With Comp's Hydraulic Roller Retrofit camshafts, you can get all the benefits of the increased power which comes from a roller cam with the low maintenance of a regular hydraulic. Plus, there's no worries of the cam going flat, having to do the correct "break in" process, etc. After helping customers through dozens and dozens of builds, we found that Comp's largest off the shelf Hydraulic Roller just wasn't big enough for the 500 inch and larger engines running a good flowing (325+ CFM) head such as our CNC Stealth heads. We had many customers who had Comp custom grind them this particular cam, and it worked so well that we decided to offer it as an "off the shelf custom," keeping them in stock at all times for our customers. The .571" lift and 252 intake and 258 exhaust duration at .050" really lets the more serious builds reach their potential, while still having enough low end for some street use. These are ground on a 110 degree lobe separation angle. We'd use about a 3500 stall, and some decent rear end gears (3.55-4.10 for the street,) and a minimum of 10:1 compression. And, since this is Comp we're talking about, you can be assured of two things: The product is 100% made in the USA, and the quality is second to none. Also, keep in mind that all roller cams require a bronze distributor gear such as our 200-1085, a bronze fuel pump pushrod such as our 145-1021, a three bolt timing chain with a torrington bearing such as our 114-1001, a cam button such as our 145-1005, and matching roller lifters such as our 154-1003. And, you must run 10 degree valve locks and retainers, and matching roller double valve springs.
This hydraulic roller grind is a great match for Trick Flow heads, or other CNC ported heads flowing in the 320 CFM or better range. With duration at .050" at a very streetable 243/247 degrees, but lift at an amazing .600", this cam allows good flowing heads to really work, while still keeping plenty of low end and driveablity for stoplight to stoplight response. Lobe separation is 108. We'd use about a 3000 stall, and some decent rear end gears (3.55-4.10 for the street,) and a minimum of 10:1 compression. Also, keep in mind that all roller cams require a bronze distributor gear such as our 200-1085, a bronze fuel pump pushrod such as our 145-1021, a three bolt timing chain with a torrington bearing such as our 114-1001, a cam button such as our 145-1005, and matching roller lifters such as our 154-1003. And, you must run 10 degree valve locks and retainers, and matching roller double valve springs.
Shown above is our brand new Heavy Duty intermediate shaft with BRONZE gear. These feature a heavy duty gear made from ASTM standard 63020 Nickel Aluminum Bronze alloy. The gear is pinned to the shaft to help with gear retention under heavy loads (such as high volume oil pumps), as well as a radiused taper for extra strength where the shaft transitions into a hex drive for the oil pump. These are for use only with solid billet roller cams which cannot use a standard steel distributor drive gear. The quality on these is AMAZING, the same or better than the major name brand units at a fraction of the price! These work great with our high volume oil pumps. Don't forget a new bushing also!
These new Comp Cams premium fuel pump pushrods are made from hollow 4130 Chrome Moly steel which then has heat treated tips pressed in and is black coated for durability. This process allows for over a 30% weight savings compared to stock replacement type pushrods, which are made from a solid steel bar. This model features a BRONZE tip, and is designed to be used with 8620 ROLLER CAMSHAFTS ONLY. We carry a different version with steel tips for use with regular iron cams. If you're looking for the best there is in the Big Block Mopar fuel pump pushrod department, this is it. This is a premium USA made Comp Cams item. Nothing else on the market has the durability and weight savings of this piece.
The BEST option. For all roller cams, this set is the only way to go, since it comes with a pre installed TORRINGTON BEARING on the back of the cam gear. This 3 bolt 9 way adjustable billet timing chain set includes fully machined billet sprockets which are MADE IN THE USA, and a heavy duty chain that uses independent seamless (true) rollers. Detailed instructions for installation are included. One of the best sets on the market, at any price. Details of chainset appearance may vary slightly from the picture.
Our Performance 12 point bolt kits are a nice looking option that features grade 8 strength, black oxide coating, and with a price that doesn't break the bank. This kit includes the three bolts needed to attach a 3 bolt camshaft to the timing chain sproket. Custom matching, small diameter washers are also included with this kit.
Our new Premium Black Timing Covers are supplied in a very nice black electroplated finish, the same process used in modern replacement body parts. Can be installed as-is or painted if desired. A very nice cover at a great price!
Comp Cams has taken great pains to develop what they feel to be the best line of lubricants available to protect your engine before startup and during break-in. Used by professional engine builders throughout the country, their cam and lifter lube is a red tacky oil which sticks to the surface and won't bleed off. This is ideal for engines which will sit for any amount of time between initial startup and when the cam and lifters were installed and lubed. This ensures your cam and lifters have full lubrication upon startup, preventing any galling or scuffing upon first contact. One 4oz bottle is enough to do one engine.
Along with the purchase of any Comp cam and lifters, we also strongly recommend using Comp's engine break in oil additive. This is it essential to make sure your cam and lifters are fully covered under Comp's warranty. It's a well known fact that, due to EPA regulations and other reasons, over the last few years oil manufacturers have removed the Zinc and other additives from their motor oil. If you try to break in a brand new cam and just add regular "off the shelf" motor oil from your local parts store, it is VERY likely you will have a failure. You must add this additive to the oil to replenish the zinc which is no longer included by the oil manufacturers. This works with synthetics, blended, and standard petroleum oils. In our own engines, we usually get a couple extra bottles to keep on the shelf and add one at every oil change. It's cheap insurance.
By accessing and using this site, and/or ordering any merchandise from us, you agree that you have read and are bound by the policies,
terms and conditions set forth in the terms and conditions linked pages above. Please read these policies FULLY before ordering.