1/4 Main Girdle Setup Our 100% USA MADE girdle setups are just the ticket to add the ultimate in strength to the bottom end of your high horsepower big block Mopar. Absolutely recommended for builds over 600 horsepower. During engine operation, the power and twisting force of the engine can cause the main studs and caps to distort under load. Normally, the block is doing the best it can to hold all these forces together, however stock blocks were originally designed in the 1950's for engines making 300-400 horsepower, topps. Today's stroker engines with long armed cranks can make 600-800 horsepower without much trouble at all. All those increased crank strokes act like a longer prybar during operation, greatly increasing the available leverage, which in turn multiplies the internal loads the engine has to deal with by several times. Under these heavier loads, the main studs can act a little like a "flagpole or antenna in the wind." With nothing to hold them steady, they can sway back and forth and side to side, causing the main caps to move or distort under stress, or even "jump" slightly off the block (known as capwalk.) All this can lead to possible main cap and/or bearing damage or failure. In a worst case scenario, this flexing can even lead to the block cracking down the center. These girdles act similar to the way in which the guide wires on a flagpole or antenna would work. They anchor the outer or lower end of the main studs, and keep them in place under serious loads. They also help to generally tie together and strengthen the bottom end. By directly connecting the block's deep oil pan "skirt" to the blocks main cap & stud assembly, (which, in turn, is connected directly to the center of the block or the "core" of the engine) they help all components of the engine's bottom end to be linked together into one solid, interconnected assembly. This is a HUGE improvement over the factory's arrangement, where all the components of the bottom end (main caps & studs, oil pan rails, etc are all separate non connected components which protrude from center core of the engine block.
We make these from super strong 1/4" solid steel plate, (not 3/16" aluminum like some of the others we've found on the market.) We've found 1/4" to be thick enough to do a great job, but not so thick that it causes interference hassles with the oil pan to k-member clearance, etc. This setup includes all the hardware needed to install, including oil pan studs and bolts, assorted thicknesses of custom shim packs, main studs, nuts, hardened washers, etc. All the main studs, nuts and washers are custom made 190,000 PSI pieces sourced directly from ARP, so you know the quality is top notch. The girdle is clamped and held in place with double nuts (both on TOP and underneath, so there is no distortion or movement.) If your block has already been machined with studs, those studs can be replaced with the studs included with our girdle without a problem. If your block currently has bolts, it will need to be re-line honed because replacing bolts with studs will cause the main housing bores to distort slightly. Detailed installation instructions are included with this kit. It technically "can" be installed with the engine still in the car, but sure is a heck of a lot easier to do it with the engine flipped over on a stand. A great value and some of the best insurance you can buy! While our girdle setup does work great with factory main caps, if you want the absolute ultimate in strength, (short of an aftermarket block) use this with our aftermarket billet main caps!
ARP 5.200 Special Main Girdle Stud - ONE PIECE We now carry the special 5.200" long ARP studs which are supplied in our main girdle kit. These feature the extra long threads on the top end of the stud to allow for the extra thickness of the girdle plate, shims and hold down nuts. Normally, 8 of these are required for a complete engine, the rear (#5) main cap uses standard length studs since longer studs are impossible to use in this location due to the interference with the rear seal cap. We offer these individually for service replacement purposes with our own girdle kit, or for those who buy the girdle plate elsewhere and need the special studs.
Billet Steel Main Caps - Set of 5 Our new billet steel main caps finally allow you to upgrade the strength of your block for an incredibly reasonable cost! With the increased popularity of our stoker kits and forged rotating components, the block and factory cast iron main caps are often finding themselves as the weakest link in modern stroker engines making over 600-650 horsepower. With these upgraded caps, you can extend the reliability of your factory block far beyond that range... and for a small fraction of the cost of other main caps on the market, or especially an aftermarket block. These caps are FACTORY HEIGHT. That means they are compatible with any off-the-shelf Big Block Mopar main studs or bolts (no special lengths required) and they'll work with any of the aftermarket girdles available (for a super strong combination) AND you won't have interference issues with the aluminum rear seal cap due to these caps being taller than stock. The bolt holes are spot faced to make sure the main stud nuts and washers have a flat, even surface to clamp down onto, and the thrust surface is already pre-cut into the #3 cap. We've thought of everything. And, the best part? We include ALL FIVE caps for the incredible price listed. A great choice for upgrading an old set of cast iron factory caps, or even for replacing a set of missing originals. These work with both "B" and "RB" engines. As with any aftermarket main caps, fitting the caps to your block's registers and line boring and/or honing is required.
Billet Steel CROSSBOLTED Main Caps - Set of 5 Our new 5 piece billet steel CROSSBOLTED main cap set finally allow you to upgrade the strength of your block for an incredibly reasonable cost! Similar to the factory HEMI crossbolted setup, this allows you to convert your standard wedge 383/400/440 block to a super strong crossbolted setup. With the increased popularity of our stoker kits and forged rotating components, the block and factory cast iron main caps are often finding themselves as the weakest link in modern stroker engines making over 600-650 horsepower. With these upgraded caps, you can extend the reliability of your factory block far beyond that range... and for a small fraction of the cost of other main caps on the market, or especially an aftermarket block. These caps are FACTORY HEIGHT. That means they are compatible with any off-the-shelf Big Block Mopar main studs or bolts (no special lengths required) and they'll work with any of the aftermarket girdles available (for a super strong combination) AND you won't have interference issues with the aluminum rear seal cap due to these caps being taller than stock. The bolt holes are spot faced to make sure the main stud nuts and washers have a flat, even surface to clamp down onto, and the thrust surface is already pre-cut into the #3 cap. We've thought of everything. And, the best part? We include ALL FIVE caps for the incredible price listed. A great choice for upgrading an old set of cast iron factory caps, or even for replacing a set of missing originals. These work with both "B" and "RB" engines. As with any aftermarket main caps, fitting the caps to your block's registers and line boring and/or honing is required, as well as milling out the trusses of the block for the "ears" of the center three crossbolted caps. This setup, along with a main girdle kit, is about the strongest, most bulletproof thing you can do to a factory block. Click on the "view additonal images" button to see a side view of the center crossbolted cap.
7075 T6 Billet Aluminum Main Caps - Set of 5 Our new 7075 T6 Billet Aluminum main caps finally allow you to upgrade the strength of your block for an incredibly reasonable cost! Our 7075 aluminum is just as strong as the 7075 aluminum used in the "name brand" caps costing over twice as much!
Girdle Sub Kit: Girdle Hold Down Nuts and Washers Due to popular demand, we now offer the "sub kits" of girdle hardware which we include in our main girdle kit. This kit inlcudes the 8 heavy duty nuts and 8 washers which clamp the girdle plate down to the main cap studs. As circled in red in the picture.
Girdle Sub Kit: Shim Pack .002 (10pcs) Due to popular demand, we now offer the "sub kits" of girdle hardware which we include in our main girdle kit. This kit inlcudes the same package of 10 pieces of .002" shims which is included in our 200-1090 girdle. These go on top of the main cap nuts, and allow you to "build up" this surface to the height of the oil pan rail on the block, so that the girdle can clamp down to a flat, level surface in every area.
Girdle Sub Kit: Shim Pack .005 (10pcs) Due to popular demand, we now offer the "sub kits" of girdle hardware which we include in our main girdle kit. This kit inlcudes the same package of 10 pieces of .005" shims which is included in our 200-1090 girdle. These go on top of the main cap nuts, and allow you to "build up" this surface to the height of the oil pan rail on the block, so that the girdle can clamp down to a flat, level surface in every area.
Girdle Sub Kit: Shim Pack .008 (10pcs) Due to popular demand, we now offer the "sub kits" of girdle hardware which we include in our main girdle kit. This kit inlcudes the same package of 10 pieces of .008" shims which is included in our 200-1090 girdle. These go on top of the main cap nuts, and allow you to "build up" this surface to the height of the oil pan rail on the block, so that the girdle can clamp down to a flat, level surface in every area.
Girdle Sub Kit: Shim Pack .010 (10pcs) Due to popular demand, we now offer the "sub kits" of girdle hardware which we include in our main girdle kit. This kit inlcudes the same package of 10 pieces of .010" shims which is included in our 200-1090 girdle. These go on top of the main cap nuts, and allow you to "build up" this surface to the height of the oil pan rail on the block, so that the girdle can clamp down to a flat, level surface in every area.
Girdle Sub Kit: Shim Pack .015 (10pcs) Due to popular demand, we now offer the "sub kits" of girdle hardware which we include in our main girdle kit. This kit inlcudes the same package of 10 pieces of .015" shims which is included in our 200-1090 girdle. These go on top of the main cap nuts, and allow you to "build up" this surface to the height of the oil pan rail on the block, so that the girdle can clamp down to a flat, level surface in every area.
Girdle Sub Kit: Shim Pack .020 (10pcs) Due to popular demand, we now offer the "sub kits" of girdle hardware which we include in our main girdle kit. This kit inlcudes the same package of 10 pieces of .020" shims which is included in our 200-1090 girdle. These go on top of the main cap nuts, and allow you to "build up" this surface to the height of the oil pan rail on the block, so that the girdle can clamp down to a flat, level surface in every area.
Girdle Sub Kit: Shim Pack .062 (10pcs) Due to popular demand, we now offer the "sub kits" of girdle hardware which we include in our main girdle kit. This kit inlcudes the same package of 10 pieces of .062" shims which is included in our 200-1090 girdle. These go on top of the main cap nuts, and allow you to "build up" this surface to the height of the oil pan rail on the block, so that the girdle can clamp down to a flat, level surface in every area.
Girdle Sub Kit: Shim Pack .125 (10pcs) Due to popular demand, we now offer the "sub kits" of girdle hardware which we include in our main girdle kit. This kit inlcudes 10 pieces of .125" shims. Our 200-1090 girdle kit includes 3 of these, for 30 pieces total . These go on top of the main cap nuts, and allow you to "build up" this surface to the height of the oil pan rail on the block, so that the girdle can clamp down to a flat, level surface in every area.
Dropped Centerlink - 1962-70 B Body It's a common issue on Mopars to have the rear of the oil pan making contact with the centerlink. This is known to be a very "tight fitting" area, and is often due to aftermarket oil pans being made deeper than stock ones, aftermarket engine mounts being thinner than OEM factory ones- which causes the engine to sit lower, past collision damage, incorrect parts, or even just plain old "sloppy" production tolerances from back when the cars were thown together on the assembly lines. And then, if you are running a windage tray, or especially a Main Girdle Plate, it drops the pan down EVEN FARTHER!! Our new dropped centerlink is just the solution! We've reproduced the factory centerlink to 100% OEM specs, except the center part which goes directly underneath the oil pan has been "dropped" by 3/4" inch, to give you a bunch of extra clearance under the oil pan. Click on the extra picture to see the two parts compared together in the same picture. These are also usable as a service replacement item if you just need a brand new centerlink (even if you don't necessarily need the additional oil pan clearance.) As far as we are aware, these are the only 100% NEW MANUFACTURED centerlinks currently available on the market. A long awaited solution to an age old problem!